Tannat: the beast tamed by the mountains
One of the most fiercely tannic grapes on earth — and in the sun-blasted high deserts of Salta, it comes out rich, deep and surprisingly velvety.
Some grapes are named for a place, some for a person. Tannat is named for what it does to your mouth: tannin, and lots of it. It is one of the most fiercely tannic red grapes in the world — a brooding, rustic, structured wine that, in the wrong hands, can feel like chewing on a tea bag. Which makes what happens to it in northern Argentina so remarkable. Up in the sun-blasted high deserts of Salta, the same ferocious grape comes out rich, deep and surprisingly velvety. It is one of Argentine wine's best-kept secrets.
From France to South America
Tannat comes originally from Madiran, in southwest France, where it makes famously tough, age-worthy reds. Its great second act, though, was in South America: Basque settlers carried it across the Atlantic in the 19th century — a journey strikingly similar to Malbec's — and it took root above all in Uruguay, which adopted it as its national flagship grape. Argentina got it too, and quietly found a niche where it does something neither France nor Uruguay can quite replicate.
Tiny, but punching above its weight
Tannat is a genuine rarity in Argentina — it accounts for less than 1% of the country's red grapes, a sliver next to the oceans of Malbec. But the small plantings it does have are concentrated in exactly the right place, and the wines they make have earned serious critical respect. This is a connoisseur's grape: little-known, hard to find, and beloved by those who do.
Why altitude is the magic ingredient
Here is the trick. In France and Uruguay, Tannat grows at low elevation. In Argentina it grows high — much of it above 1,000 meters, and in the north well above that. Its heartland is the Calchaquí Valley of Salta, centered on Cafayate, where vineyards sit around 1,700 meters and higher, among rocky, colorful desert mountains. There are also good plantings in the warmer reaches of San Juan and in Mendoza's Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley.
What altitude does is the whole story. The intense high-desert sunshine — over 300 days a year, with fierce ultraviolet light — ripens Tannat's stubborn tannins fully, while the cold mountain nights keep the wine fresh. Crucially, when growers harvest late (often very late, just as the grapes begin to shrivel) and handle the fruit gently, those famously aggressive tannins ripen into something rich and supple rather than harsh. The result, in the words of critics, is deeply colored wine with plenty of richness, freshness and structure — but without the underripe astringency that plagues Tannat elsewhere. The beast, finally, is tamed.
What it tastes like
Argentine Tannat is dark — intensely so, ruby-to-black with violet edges. The nose is all brooding dark fruit: blackberry, black fig, huckleberry and plum, often with savory, almost rustic notes of eucalyptus, menthol and spice, and (from oak ageing) chocolate, mocha and vanilla. There is frequently a distinctly Argentine flicker of dulce de leche sweetness to the fruit. On the palate it is full-bodied and structured, but the best high-altitude examples carry their power with ripe, smooth, even velvety tannins and a long, balanced finish. It is a wine that rewards a little patience — and ages beautifully.
How to drink it
Tannat is a meat wine, full stop. Its grip and structure were made for the richest, fattiest fare: a thick, marbled steak, slow-cooked lamb, short ribs, game, hearty stews, and the fattier cuts of an asado where the tannins can do their job of cutting through. Aged hard cheeses work too. This is not a delicate aperitif — it is a wine for the table, for big food and cold nights. Decant a young one (see our serving guide) to let it open up.
If you have already met Argentina's structured reds — the backbone of Cabernet Sauvignon, the spice of Syrah — Tannat is the boldest of the family, the deep end of the pool. For drinkers who love a big, serious, structured red and the thrill of discovering something most people have never tasted, Cafayate Tannat is one of the great rewards of Argentine wine.
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Try it with: marbled steak, slow-cooked lamb, short ribs, and the fatty cuts of an asado. Decant young bottles first.
Quick answers
What is Tannat wine?
Tannat is a bold, deeply colored red grape originally from Madiran in southwest France, named for its naturally high tannin levels. It is the flagship grape of Uruguay and a small but acclaimed specialty in northern Argentina, especially the high-altitude Calchaquí Valley around Cafayate.
Why is Argentine Tannat smoother than other Tannat?
Altitude. In Salta's high deserts, intense sun and ultraviolet light fully ripen Tannat's notoriously harsh tannins, while cold nights keep the wine fresh. Late harvesting and gentle handling turn the grape's aggressive structure into rich, supple, velvety tannins without underripe astringency.
Where is Tannat grown in Argentina?
Mainly in the Calchaquí Valley of Salta, centered on Cafayate at around 1,700 meters and above, with further plantings in San Juan and Mendoza (Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley). It makes up less than 1% of Argentina's red grapes.
What does Argentine Tannat taste like?
Expect a very dark wine with blackberry, black fig and plum fruit, savory eucalyptus and menthol notes, and chocolate or mocha from oak. It is full-bodied and structured, but the best high-altitude examples have ripe, smooth tannins and a long, balanced finish.
What food pairs with Tannat?
Rich, fatty meat — marbled steak, slow-cooked lamb, short ribs, game and hearty stews — plus aged hard cheeses. Its firm tannins are built to cut through fat, making it a natural with the fattier cuts of an asado. Decant young bottles first.
