Chapter 4 of 4

Simple rules to remember

A real asado unfolds in stages, and a clever host changes gears as it goes.

The opener — provoleta and a white. Before any meat, there's often provoleta: a thick disc of provolone melted on the grill with oregano. Here is the local trick that surprises visitors — reach for a white. A crisp, aromatic Torrontés, or a fresh high-altitude Chardonnay, cuts through the molten cheese far better than a heavy red.

The offal and sausages — Torrontés or a light red. Next come the achuras: chorizo, blood sausage (morcilla), sweetbreads (mollejas). These are rich and fatty, and here's the genuinely Argentine move: many sommeliers pour Torrontés against them. Its bright acidity slices through the fat where a tannic red would clash. If you'd rather stay red, a juicy, low-tannin Bonarda is the easygoing choice for sausages and morcilla.

The main event — the beef, and your best Malbec. Now bring out the big cuts — rib-eye, bife de chorizo, short ribs — and with them the robust reds. A structured Mendoza Malbec is the classic. For the most serious, fat-marbled cuts, a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Cabernet–Malbec blend adds backbone and stands up to anything off the grill.

The rule running through all of it: match the weight. Lighter, fattier, saltier bites love acidity (whites, light reds); big, charred, meaty cuts want structure (full reds).

Meat grilling slowly over glowing wood coals on a parrilla
An asado is a multi-act feast — and the best tables change wines as it unfolds, from a crisp white to the biggest red.