The grape that survived 500 years of being ignored
Criolla arrived with the Spanish conquistadors in the 1550s. For centuries it was the worker's wine — rough, unappreciated, overlooked. Then natural winemakers discovered its century-old vines. Now it's Argentina's most fascinating comeback story.
The conquistadors planted it in 1550. For 470 years, nobody took it seriously. Then natural winemakers found the old vines — and realised Argentina had been sitting on a treasure.
Criolla Grande is one of the oldest cultivated grapes in the Americas. Descended from Spanish mission vines, it survived centuries of being overlooked while Malbec and Cabernet got all the attention. But its ancient vines — some over 100 years old — produce wines of extraordinary depth and character. The natural wine world is paying attention. The rest of the world is starting to follow.
How Argentina's oldest grape went from forgotten to fashionable
For most of the 20th century, Criolla was the wine nobody admitted to drinking. It was cheap, it was simple, it was everywhere — the everyday table wine of rural Argentina, drunk cold from pitchers at asado gatherings. When Malbec exploded internationally, Criolla was left even further behind. Many old vineyards were ripped out and replanted with more prestigious varieties.
But some farmers kept their ancient Criolla vines. The gnarled, low-yielding old bushvines — some more than a century old — were too difficult to uproot, or perhaps the farmers simply couldn't bear to destroy something their great-grandparents had planted. These survivors became the secret ingredient when natural winemakers arrived in Argentina in the early 2000s.
What they found was extraordinary. Old Criolla vines, dry-farmed on poor soils without irrigation, produced tiny amounts of intensely flavoured grapes with a delicacy and transparency that the international varieties couldn't match. The resulting wines — pale, aromatic, almost ethereal — became some of the most sought-after bottles to come out of Argentina. Suddenly, the oldest grape was the most exciting.
The complete Criolla guide
Chapter 01
500 Years of History
From Spanish missions to natural wine bars — the remarkable journey of Argentina's oldest grape.
Chapter 02
The Natural Wine Rebirth
How old-vine Criolla became the darling of the natural wine movement — and why it matters.
Chapter 03
Taste Profile
Light, fresh, aromatic — what a glass of old-vine Criolla actually tastes like.
Chapter 04
Pairings
Empanadas, grilled vegetables, charcuterie — the easy pleasures of Criolla at the table.
"These vines survived the conquistadors, the economic crises, the rip-and-replant era. They were always waiting to be discovered."
Argentina Through Wine
Start with the 500-year story
Chapter 01 traces Criolla's extraordinary journey from conquistador to cult wine.
Chapter 01: 500 Years of History →Quick answers
What is Criolla grape?
Criolla (also called Criolla Grande) is a historic Argentine grape variety descended from Spanish mission vines brought by conquistadors in the 1550s. It is one of the oldest cultivated grapes in the Americas.
What does Criolla wine taste like?
Criolla makes light, fresh, easy-drinking wines with red berry fruit, floral notes and low tannins. Natural wine producers highlight its juicy, vibrant character and ability to show terroir with exceptional clarity.
Why is Criolla making a comeback?
The natural wine movement rediscovered Criolla's old vines — some over 100 years old — as the source of authentic, low-intervention wines with deep cultural roots. Its resistance to disease and drought also makes it attractive as climate change threatens other varieties.